In fear of the long hike from Vusanje back to Theth, we had organized the same transfer in the morning as all the others from the groups. It would take us in Jeeps around 6 km into the mountains and save a few hundred meters of altitude gain. Partly because of sparse space and partly because of fun, half of us have to ride in the back of the pickups which is mildly bumpy on the dirt roads but also lots of fun.
Half way there, we stop to see another blue eye. It is a little smaller than the one we saw in Nyderlyse and there is no waterfall but it is also completely empty which gives us the time and space to observe the deep blue and turquoise colors of this fascinating natural occurrence.
We are finally kicked out of the pickups at the beginning of a wide high valley which takes us softly up and along what appears to be a lake on the map but is completely dry. We find out later that there had still been water and millions of small frogs in the lake only two weeks ago. Now there are only some of the miniature flogs left that jump around on the grassy grounds of the former lake.
After only the first hour of gradual climbing thought the valley there is a “Coffee-bar”. It’s a shepherd’s shed and a table and two benches made out of logs with a roof from leafy branches. The two shepherds sell Turkish coffee and sheep yoghurt (if you ask for it). The yoghurt is very sheepy and delicious. We have one of the guides ask for the price of the yoghurt and the answer is something like “I don’t know, you can give what you want, if you don’t want to pay that’s also okay..”. 200 LEK seem like a good price and we move on.
Soon after the break, we arrive at the start of the steep ascent towards the pass that separates Vusanje valley from Theth valley. The ascent is similar to yesterday’s and goes in zig zags through the forest until the tree line and then further up through rocky terrain. We also encounter a few bunkers, the first ones on the trip. I had expected everything to be full of bunkers because Hoxha was crazy about building them but there had not been any so far. Here, there is a big military station that is now a shepherd’s house and three well preserved bunkers on our way.
Passing the mountain chain from one valley to the other means climbing two little peaks on the pass with a little lake and lots of sheep in the hole between them. As always, with incredible views on the surrounding peaks. We can now also recognize the backside of the peaks we had seen in the neighboring valley yesterday from the Taljanka peak.
After the second peak, the path starts descending steeply for around 1000 meters of elevation loss in one go. The terrain is partly very slippery with lots of loose rocks and dust and heat increase with every meter we get closer to Theth.
When we arrive to the first spring that has a bar next to it, our trip ends with a cold drink and our pick up for Shkoder. In the end, with the transfer in the morning and the earlier pickup in the afternoon, this feared day had been one of the shortest.
With mixed feelings, sad about the end of the trip and glad to be allowed to take the boots off, we get into the Jeep for 3 hours of driving back to Shkoder.
Before leaving the dirt road, we take one last picture with the mountain panorama. From this point it is nice to look around and remember where the peaks of balkans route had taken us. Many waypoints and peaks are recognizable or at least imaginable from here and it is a good moment to remember and put everything into a geographic order.
Many curves, lavender fields, new houses with big gardens full of vegetables, corn and wine, and many furniture shops later, we arrive in Shkoder. Not without getting invited by our driver to some corn cobs that people grill on charcoal on the side of the road and sell as a snack to the cars.
It is hot and we are overwhelmed by civilization. I want to go back to the mountains. Before even going to the hotel, I stop at a shop and buy some flip flops. No way I’m going to wear the boots again today.
My mum is already waiting for me in the hotel and we catch up about her adventures of the last days, her way of getting back here, her experiences with the Shkoder tourist information and her failed intent to rent a car.
After a thorough shower I am actually ready for bed but we have a last dinner appointment with Ana and Pascual.
The restaurant is overly fancy and the food okay and suddenly it’s past 11. I only long for some silence and sleep and rest but on our way back we meet the guides (Mentor and Donika) sitting in a bar and have a last goodbye beer together before getting back to the hotel around midnight. I feel really destroyed and not able to write my blog anymore, which is why you get it with a delay.
